cactus & kudzu

What’s your favorite kind of clam chowder?

Are you a fan of the rich, creamy New England variety? Or do you think the spicy tomato broth of its Manhattan relative is one of the most heartwarming soups you’ve ever tasted?

I really, really love Manhattan clam chowder. Whenever I eat it, I am reminded of my Grandma Arguijo. I was thinking about her while I made this, and it dawned on me that I wasn’t sure why. But I knew it had something to do with Tabasco, as strange as that may sound. So I asked my mom that evening. She jogged my memory:

The first time I tried Manhattan clam chowder was with my Grandma at the Shrimp Boat, a restaurant in Rosemead, California that I don’t think is still around. Grandma taught me a trick—add a few dashes of Tabasco to the soup for some spice. I was hooked. Soon I was adding a few dashes to anything that I felt needed a pick-me-up: eggs, burritos, tomato soup. My little 5- or 6-year-old palate was pretty hard core, if you ask me.

To this day, I still automatically think Tabasco when I think of Manhattan clam chowder. But when I made this batch, I didn’t have any Tabasco in the cupboard, so Louisiana Hot Sauce had to stand in as a substitute. It was good, but lacked that extra zap of spice you find in Tabasco. But this recipe calls for 1/4 teaspoon of chili powder, which delivers plenty of heat. So if you don’t want to push it past that, don’t feel too pressured.

Try this recipe on Sunday afternoon and let it simmer for about an hour, or you can put everything in a Crock-Pot and keep it set on low all day long. But whatever you do, make sure it gets to simmer and really absorb the flavor. Then you get that deep, zesty, comforting warmth that brings me back to spending time with my beautiful Grandma.

Serve this with a crusty French bread.

Manhattan Clam Chowder (Adapted from both All Recipes and Serious Eats)
Makes 4 to 6 servings

4 slices bacon, chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1/2 large yellow onion, diced
3 medium carrots, peeled and chopped
1 dried bay leaf
2 teaspoons dried oregano
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
3 (6.5-ounce) cans minced clams
3 to 4 Russet potatoes, rinsed, dried, and chopped
1 (28-ounce) can whole tomatoes
Salt and pepper

Cook bacon in Dutch oven over low heat until fat starts to render. Increase heat to medium and cook until crispy, stirring frequently. Remove bacon from Dutch oven and remove all but 1 tablespoon of fat.

Add olive oil to Dutch oven. Add garlic and cook over medium heat until very fragrant, about 30 seconds. Then add onion, carrots, bay leaf, oregano, and cayenne pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, for about 10 minutes or until vegetables are soft. Add potatoes.

Drain clams and reserve liquid in measuring cup. Add water to clam liquid to make 2 cups clam stock. Pour stock over vegetable mixture. Add enough additional water to cover potatoes (about 1/2 cup). Partially cover Dutch oven and let simmer for about 10 minutes, until potatoes are soft.

Drain liquid from can of tomatoes into soup. Chop tomatoes and put into soup (include any liquid released from tomatoes while chopping). Add clams, salt, and pepper, stirring to combine. Simmer over medium-low heat for 30 to 35 minutes or up to an hour.

Garnish with chopped bacon and serve, discarding bay leaf.

Related: what I ordered: La Galleria 33